The Regata Storica (‘historical regatta”) is a centuries-old tradition that takes place on the Grand Canal of Venice every September. The main event is made up of four different rowing races, as well as a parade of decorated boats with costumed passengers.
I was looking forward to watching it during our trip last year and did some research ahead of time to find out what to expect.
Despite all the travel articles and books and forums I read to prepare, I ended up way off about some major things…
1. It’s more of a local event and not big with tourists. [FALSE]
Maybe it was what I had read about neighborhood groups decorating parade boats. Or the fact that the races are the height of Venice’s competitive rowing season. Or about locals packing picnics and watching the Regata from their own boats. Or the fact that it’s not a recently-concocted event – it spans back to the days of the Republic.
Maybe it was all those things put together. But somehow I got the impression that the Regata Storica was a matter of Venetian city pride that wasn’t really on the radar for outsiders.
The reality, though, is that the word is definitely out. It was not the quaint, mostly-local event I had envisioned. Instead, on the Sunday of the Regata Storica, the city’s streets swelled with swarms of sightseers.
Which I did not expect and which is directly related to another misconception I had…
2. It would be easy to find a spot to watch the Regata. [NOPE]
While you can pay to watch the Regata from a seat in kind of a floating grandstand, the general consensus seemed to be that the reserved seats weren’t really worth the price – especially when you have the option to watch it for free.
Most people watch the Regata just like your hometown parade. It’s free to stand or sit along the main “street” (in this case, the Grand Canal).
On top of this, I had heard that people don’t really show up early to stake out a spot. So I was pretty sure we’d be able to just show up, find an unpopulated stretch, and plop ourselves down.
In fact, it seemed so much like a non-issue that Phillip and I decided to squeeze in some extra time at the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, even if it meant showing up a little late.
We even grabbed a quick bite, since it was approaching 4pm, and we hadn’t stopped for lunch.
By the time we went to look for a spot, the Regata was already well underway and spectators several deep crowded the edge of the canal.
We finally found a spot near a little gondola dock, where the crowd seemed slightly more sparse. And the people in front of us eventually left, opening up space on the ground for us to sit.
3. We’d have a clue what was going on. [STILL NO.]
Things I read kept going into all this detail about the different types of boats that would be racing – this kind has two adult rowers, that kind has two younger rowers, another kind has women racing in masks in tribute to the masked prostitute rowers of the past.
I just thought “okay, I get it. When I see boats with 2 people rowing, I’ll know they’re the kind of boats with 2 rowers.”
But I also thought it would be clear cut and obvious, one event after another. Instead, we came in the middle of it all, and it seemed all be happening at once – historic boats parading, racers (I’m not sure which ones) racing, and some random boats floating by too.
Somewhere there was a loudspeaker with a commentator speaking very fast Italian. I listened for the names of those different kinds of boats I’d been reading about, but the words all ran together.
It just underscores the fact that you can read all about something and still be surprised when you experience it firsthand.
And that’s a good reason to travel.
This week I’ve been watching the video I took, and, honestly, I’m still unsure about what exactly is going on when. But I’m glad we got to witness it.
That said, this year, Phillip and I will be making mimosas and watching the Regata from our living room.
– More Regata Storica Info –
If you go IRL…
- Reserved seats are €60. I read more than one complaint about giant monitors on the grandstand blocking the view of the race itself.
- Expect crowds!
- I’m not sure how early to suggest you show up – but definitely earlier than we did!
