Voyaging Across the Ocean Without a Map

Polynesian wayfinding https://hokulea.com/polynesian-wayfinding/

“We … find our way on canoes as we travel across the ocean where there are no street signs.”

Even in the middle of the Pacific Ocean with no land in sight – and no GPS – Lehua Kamalu knows where she’s going.

double hulled canoe on the ocean
Hōkūle’a was designed to replicate traditional Polynesian voyaging canoes. Photo courtesy of the Polynesian Voyaging Society.

I learned about Lehua through an interview on the Overheard at National Geographic podcast. As part of the Polynesian Voyaging Society (PVS), she has learned to find her way across the waves by employing ancestral knowledge and constant, keen observation of her surroundings.

Lehua Kamalu on a boat
Captain navigator Lehua Kamalu before departing on a voyage from Hawaii to California in August 2018. Photo by Hye Jung Kim / Polynesian Voyaging Society.

 

“Wayfinding for us really is the idea that with the naked eye, with all of your senses, [you] immerse yourself into the signs of the natural world around you.”

The Polynesian Voyaging Society was founded in the 1970s, part of a Hawaiian cultural renaissance of pre-colonial arts, language, knowledge, and skills. They re-learned how to build the large, ocean-going canoes that had originally brought Polynesians to the Hawaiian islands centuries ago, as well as the navigational methods that guided them.

“Waves create regular, readable patterns in the ocean that are long range and very consistent, particularly in the tropics, particularly here in Polynesia, and are very reliable to find your way.”

The first voyaging canoe PVS built was the 62-foot long Hōkūleʻa, which was launched in 1975 and has since traveled over 140,000 nautical miles! The next canoe, Hikianalia, was built in 2012.

Close-up view of a voyaging canoe on the water with its name, Hokule'a, printed on the side.
Photo courtesy of the Polynesian Voyaging Society.

In 2018, after years of honing her navigational skills, Lehua Kamalu became the first woman to captain one of these canoes on an extended voyage.

It was fascinating to hear her describe what it’s like to sail across the Pacific Ocean without present-day navigational equipment.

“The navigator’s job is to spend as little time sleeping as possible. And as much time watching for consistency, watching for patterns in the sky and in the ocean, and also for changes and comparing what’s going on between the two.”

Currently, she’s one of the 400 crew members of two Polynesian voyaging canoes (Hōkūle‘a and Hikianalia) that are circumnavigating the Pacific on the 43,000-nautical-mile “Voyage for the Earth,” Moananuiākea.

You can track their progress on the Polynesian Voyaging Society site and see maps and updates of where they are.

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The two Polynesian voyaging canoes built by the Polynesian Voyaging Society. Photo courtesy of the PVS.

PodRec!

A podcast episode recommendation for you…

Overheard at National Geographic
Episode 19 from May 9, 2023
“She Sails the Seas Without Maps or Compasses”



All quotes are by Lehua Kamalu, from her Overheard interview with Eli Chen. All photos courtesy of the Polynesian Voyaging Society.

Clover Color Story

Somewhere in the neighborhood of Kelly green, a bit lighter than emerald, you’ll find Clover. It’s the color of lots of leafy growing things and glass bottles, and it brings an eye-catching vibrancy anywhere you add it.

A few places and projects that look great in this green…

Jungle Garden in Pasadena

1. Jungle Garden at the Huntington Library in Southern California. / from our 2016 Pasadena trip

A-frame Cabin

2. Tips for building an A-frame Cabin on UO Journal. / Photo: Carey Quinton Haider

aerial embroidery of the British countryside

3. Embroidered aerial views of the British countryside by Victoria Rose Richards. / via @chromato_mania / +See more modern embroidery projects.

Cauliflower tacos at the Coronado

4. Cauliflower tacos we enjoyed at The Coronado in Phoenix. (They’re  delicious!) / from a date day in 2019

DIY wind chime kit

5. Assemble-it-Yourself wind chime kit from an artist who makes beachy glass bottle sculptures, jewelry, and wind chimes in the Florida panhandle. / via Lifting Up Spirits / +More wind chimes you can make.

Statement plants

6. Decorating with statement leaves by Justina Blakeney. / via The Jungalow

Poster for animated film THE SECRET OF KELLS

7. The Secret of Kells poster by Jessica Seamans. This is her interpretation of the film (which I haven’t seen yet), and I love its detail and rich shades of green! / via Mondo

DIY cactus

8. Clever paper cacti printables! / via The Crafted Sparrow / +More cactus crafts.

Restaurant in Madrid, Spain

9. La Bobia restaurant, Madrid. / from an extended layover on the way back from Italy

How To Freeze Jalapeno Peppers Properly via Pepper Geek

10. Tips for freezing jalapeño peppers. / via Pepper Geek

Green Toad row boat

11. A rowboat (adorably) called the “Toad.” These are made in a village northwest of London by a family that has been making and selling small boats for over 40 years. / via Heyland Marine

DIY leather pouch project

12. DIY faux-leather pouches project and tutorial by Claire Brander. / via Fellow Fellow on the Internet Archive

Paper plants

13. Delightful handcut paper plants and flowers by Tania Lissova in Tyumen, Russia. She sells prints of her work on posters, cards, and stickers – as well as her original pieces – in her Etsy shop. / via Lissova Craft

Heritage tile

14. Neat pattern with dimensional hexagon tiles from the Atomic Subway Tile series, crafted in the Midwestern U.S. / via Heritage Tile

the world after us art installation by nathaniel stern

15. The World After Us: Imaging techno-aesthetic futures is an art exhibition that looks at the way growing things might take over our discarded tech in the far future. It features plants and fungi sprouting from electronics like laptops, keyboards, and phones. / via Nathaniel Stern


Photo sources are included in their descriptions. All the photos I took were from before the pandemic.

Bartlett Lake Marina

Bartlett Lake

Don’t believe the rumors. The road to Bartlett Lake Marina is definitely paved.

Bartlett Lake Road

I couldn’t help laughing when I learned that some guidebooks still list it as being rough and “unimproved,” like you’re blazing a trail through the wilderness. We had just made the drive – it’s an actual road, just like the highway we turned off to get there. You don’t need to machete your way through the undergrowth. You don’t even need 4-wheel drive.

Bartlett Lake

Reservoir

This perfectly good road takes you all the way to the marina parking lot, winding through beautiful desert hills until you finally spot blue water in the distance.

Bartlett Lake marina

Like many Arizona lakes, Bartlett is technically a reservoir, formed by damming part of the Verde River. Besides watersports, there’s hiking, camping, and wildflower viewing in the area, which is about an hour outside of Phoenix (half an hour from Cave Creek).

Bartlett Lake Marina Restaurant

The reservoir is part of Tonto National Forest, but the marina, general store, and restaurant are owned and operated by one entrepreneurial extended family.

Sarah Church at Bartlett Lake Marina

“We built every single thing you see,” Sarah Church, the self-proclaimed Matriarch of the Marina, told me, motioning from the restaurant patio to covered boat storage.
Bartlett Lake Marina
Phillip and I were part of a group invited to check out the new restaurant, The Last Stop, and take a ride on a rental boat. (Mr. Cheeseface stowed away too.)

Bartlett Lake Marina Restaurant

Restaurant

At lunch, we sampled cheeseburger sliders, grilled chicken sandwiches, pulled pork, regular and sweet potato fries, onion rings, and mac-and-cheese bites.

Bartlett Lake Marina Food

The clear favorites at our table were the pulled pork and the onion rings, followed by the sliders and fries.

Bartlett lake Beer

They offer a list of Arizona beers. Phillip liked the Scorpion Amber Ale by Lake Havasu-based Mudshark Brewery.

Bartlett Lake Marina Mousse

The winner, however, was dessert. Daily specials vary, but we got to try the mocha mousse, which was light and caramely and delicious. We’ve considered making the drive just for dessert (and a lake view, of course).

Bartlett lake Boat

Rentals

Afterwards, we all headed down a long pier and boarded a couple boats.

Bartlett lake Boat

Phillip and I joined the group on the 45-foot Party Yacht. It can carry up to 20 people, has seating on 2 decks, a bar, barbecue, speakers, and a water slide.

Bartlett lake Boat slide

Wouldn’t be fun to have a cookout in the middle of a lake?!

Bartlett Lake Marina Boat waterslide

The boat felt very sturdy and just rocked gently when the occasional waves rolled under it. We were there on a weekday, so everything was pretty quiet. It was neat to take in the view of the rocky hills that line the lake from the marina to the dam.

Party Yacht speakers

Besides the Party Yacht, you can rent pontoon boats, speed boats, or jet skis. There aren’t boat tours at Barlett Lake, unless you make your own.

Bartlett Lake Marina Boat

We enjoyed our time at Bartlett Lake and headed back down the (definitely paved) road contented.

Bartlett Lake

– More Bartlett Lake info –

  • The Last Stop Restaurant is open Friday through Sunday, 11am to 5pm or later.
  • Boat rentals: Party Yacht (full day) $1295. Pontoon Boat (half or full day) $295-425. Jet Ski (by the hour or day) $95-280.
  • Directions: Make sure you’re headed to Bartlett Lake Marina or Bartlett Lake Boat Club. Owner Bryan Church said GPS has lead some people to the wrong location and recommends calling if you need directions (602.316.3378).



Thank you to Bartlett Lake Marina for hosting us and RSVP & Associates for the invitation.

San Francisco is for makers

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San Francisco is full of maker culture with generations-old bakeries, letterpress printers, neighborhood art galleries, and spaces like MakeShop and Makeshift Society. While we were there for the Re:Make conference, we also got to enjoy a little slice of the artisan goods and local flavor San Francisco makers have to offer.

This included a lot of food. Because, this is me we’re talking about.

Seriously, I could write an entire post on a lot of these places – and I might still – so please let me know if there’s something you’re particularly interested in in the comments. For now, here’s an overview of our Thursday through Monday in SF.

 

Thursday: SFO -> North Beach -> Pier 39

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– Ate –

Pier Market – Tucked into the middle of the bustling Pier 39 are the bright blue awnings of the family-owned Pier Market restaurant.

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It’s the kind of cloth-napkin casual dining experience that demonstrates a passion for good food without the stuffy formality. Our meal was delicious, and the servers were very knowledgeable about the menu, giving us great recommendations and walking Phillip through the local craft beer list.

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They are a Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Restaurant Partner, which requires choosing more sustainable seafood and educating staff.

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– Stayed –

The San Remo Hotel (3 nights) – It’s a boutique Victorian-era hotel with a charm and community vibe that make it feel more like a European pension or bed and breakfast, rather than a typical chain hotel. (No meals are included but there’s coffee in the lobby after 8am). It’s just really cozy. The furniture is antique, and the rooms are small with shared bathrooms (including pull-chain toilets).

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The San Remo is on edge of the North Beach neighborhood (known for its Italian roots), so you’re walking distance from Saints Peter and Paul Church, Pier 39, Chinatown, and lots of good food. (On Sunday, we walked to our walking food tour. So that should give you an idea of how much deliciousness is nearby.)

Golden Gate Bridge at sunset from Fort Mason

Friday: Fort Mason

– Saw/Did –

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– Ate –

El Sur food truck at Off the Grid – We walked over to Off the Grid, where 30 food trucks, carts, and tents circle around with live music at Fort Mason every week (except in the winter). We ordered 2 empanadas to share – pollo saltado (pan-seared chicken) and champiñones (mushrooms) – from the El Sur truck, plopped down at a picnic table, and enjoyed.

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– Stayed –

San Remo Hotel (night 2 of 3)

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Saturday: the Bay

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– Saw/Did/Ate –

Hornblower Cruises & Events San Francisco Champagne Brunch cruise – You start out sipping mimosas (or your brunch beverage of choice) and looking out at the Bay. Once the cruise gets underway, a pianist provides ambience and acts as emcee, announcing anniversaries and birthdays. The buffet tables are stocked with fruit, salmon, quiches, salads, and breakfast breads. There’s also a carving station. Hornblower uses local and sustainable items where possible. Our server Pavel answered our questions about the Bay while keeping our coffee topped off.

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Outside on the upper decks, you take in the breeze and the gorgeous views of the shoreline and Golden Gate Bridge.

GGB

You pass Alcatraz, and, if time and currents allow, you may cruise under the Bay Bridge, as well. We spotted dolphins or maybe porpoises from the deck.

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Happening back on dry ground:

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– Stayed –

San Remo Hotel (night 3 of 3) – When we checked out the next day, they held our luggage in their office, carefully placing my vase full of flowers a friend had given me near a window. (I’m not sure cut flowers need light, but it was still a really thoughtful gesture.)

Photo Sep 14, 12 34 38 PM

Sunday: North Beach -> Nob Hill

– Saw/Did/Ate –

taqueria

Taqueria San Jose – Not fancy but good tacos and really good salsa.

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Washington Square Park – A big green plaza in front of Saints Peter and Paul Church, where we hung out, people- (and dog-) watched, and wrote a postcard or two.

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Victoria Pastry Co – We snacked on cookies and biscotti at this 100-year-old bakery.

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Local Tastes of the City San Francisco Tours North Beach/Little Italy Walking Food Tour – This tasting tour takes you behind the scenes at many North Beach institutions.

north-beach-capuccino

At the first stop on the tour, I found myself sitting outside a cafe, drinking the best cappuccino I’d ever had. You guys, this is my kind of sightseeing. Afterwards, we crowded around the roaster to look at green coffee beans while our guide explained the roasting process.
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You learn about the history of the area, walking through Washington Square Park and into Saints Peter and Paul Church. We also went to peek inside a bakery oven while munching on sourdough bread and macaroons, sampled balsamic vinegars to learn how aging makes a difference, learned about the business of fudge from the back room of a candy store, and tasted pasta, pizza, and antipasti.

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I only wish we could have taken the tour earlier in the trip, because it introduced us to so many wonderful places we would’ve loved to revisit.

– Stayed –

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InterContinental Mark Hopkins San Francisco – You might ride a chaotic cable car down Mason Street, lug your luggage up Nob Hill, scan the names of buildings towering around you, and then finally spot InterContinental Mark Hopkins in all its roaring ’20s elegance. Walk through the revolving glass doors, under gorgeous chandeliers, and into the expansive lobby, where everything starts to feel more serene.

intercontinental

We checked in, and unlocked our door to the kind of cushy room you want to collapse into and never leave. It had a super comfy bed and a bathroom larger than some Manhattan apartments. There is free wifi for rewards club members, and you can even sign up on site. A few minutes after we checked in, they brought us fruit and local chocolate.

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While our room had a fabulous view, you can see 360 degrees from the windows in the Top of the Mark restaurant on the top floor.

intercontinental-view

Monday: Mark Hopkins -> The Mission

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– Saw/Did/Ate –

Just down the hill from Mark Hopkins (easy walking distance):

  • MakeShop – Brit + Co’s maker space
  • Union Square – High end shopping, cafes, theaters, and outdoor events.
  • Cafe La Taza – They brought my sandwich up to their quiet second story. I had a perfectly good tea, but totally regretted not ordering a Mexican mocha when I tried some of Phillip’s.

elbo

My cousin Julie met us at the cafe. We chatted, and she gave us a ride to the Mission District. Phillip wanted to see Clarion Alley. It was interesting to see what was still there and what had changed in the months since I’d been there.

From the Mission, we boarded BART to head back home.

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Know Who’s Awesome?

Some of the businesses I mention in this post helped us out with complimentary or discounted media rates, so we could do more things and tell you about them. As always, I gave you my take on experiences. Opinions are my own, regardless of who picks up the check.

Thank you to the following businesses for providing complimentary or discounted tickets, meals, or accommodations:

A special thanks to the San Francisco Travel Association for resources and assistance!

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