Clover Color Story

Somewhere in the neighborhood of Kelly green, a bit lighter than emerald, you’ll find Clover. It’s the color of lots of leafy growing things and glass bottles, and it brings an eye-catching vibrancy anywhere you add it.

A few places and projects that look great in this green…

Jungle Garden in Pasadena

1. Jungle Garden at the Huntington Library in Southern California. / from our 2016 Pasadena trip

A-frame Cabin

2. Tips for building an A-frame Cabin on UO Journal. / Photo: Carey Quinton Haider

aerial embroidery of the British countryside

3. Embroidered aerial views of the British countryside by Victoria Rose Richards. / via @chromato_mania / +See more modern embroidery projects.

Cauliflower tacos at the Coronado

4. Cauliflower tacos we enjoyed at The Coronado in Phoenix. (They’re  delicious!) / from a date day in 2019

DIY wind chime kit

5. Assemble-it-Yourself wind chime kit from an artist who makes beachy glass bottle sculptures, jewelry, and wind chimes in the Florida panhandle. / via Lifting Up Spirits / +More wind chimes you can make.

Statement plants

6. Decorating with statement leaves by Justina Blakeney. / via The Jungalow

Poster for animated film THE SECRET OF KELLS

7. The Secret of Kells poster by Jessica Seamans. This is her interpretation of the film (which I haven’t seen yet), and I love its detail and rich shades of green! / via Mondo

DIY cactus

8. Clever paper cacti printables! / via The Crafted Sparrow / +More cactus crafts.

Restaurant in Madrid, Spain

9. La Bobia restaurant, Madrid. / from an extended layover on the way back from Italy

How To Freeze Jalapeno Peppers Properly via Pepper Geek

10. Tips for freezing jalapeño peppers. / via Pepper Geek

Green Toad row boat

11. A rowboat (adorably) called the “Toad.” These are made in a village northwest of London by a family that has been making and selling small boats for over 40 years. / via Heyland Marine

DIY leather pouch project

12. DIY faux-leather pouches project and tutorial by Claire Brander. / via Fellow Fellow on the Internet Archive

Paper plants

13. Delightful handcut paper plants and flowers by Tania Lissova in Tyumen, Russia. She sells prints of her work on posters, cards, and stickers – as well as her original pieces – in her Etsy shop. / via Lissova Craft

Heritage tile

14. Neat pattern with dimensional hexagon tiles from the Atomic Subway Tile series, crafted in the Midwestern U.S. / via Heritage Tile

the world after us art installation by nathaniel stern

15. The World After Us: Imaging techno-aesthetic futures is an art exhibition that looks at the way growing things might take over our discarded tech in the far future. It features plants and fungi sprouting from electronics like laptops, keyboards, and phones. / via Nathaniel Stern


Photo sources are included in their descriptions. All the photos I took were from before the pandemic.

3 Things We Got Wrong About Venice’s Regata Storica

The Regata Storica (‘historical regatta”) is a centuries-old tradition that takes place on the Grand Canal of Venice every September. The main event is made up of four different rowing races, as well as a parade of decorated boats with costumed passengers.

I was looking forward to watching it during our trip last year and did some research ahead of time to find out what to expect.

Despite all the travel articles and books and forums I read to prepare, I ended up way off about some major things…

gondola

1. It’s more of a local event and not big with tourists. [FALSE]

Maybe it was what I had read about neighborhood groups decorating parade boats. Or the fact that the races are the height of Venice’s competitive rowing season. Or about locals packing picnics and watching the Regata from their own boats. Or the fact that it’s not a recently-concocted event – it spans back to the days of the Republic.

Maybe it was all those things put together. But somehow I got the impression that the Regata Storica was a matter of Venetian city pride that wasn’t really on the radar for outsiders.

The reality, though, is that the word is definitely out. It was not the quaint, mostly-local event I had envisioned. Instead, on the Sunday of the Regata Storica, the city’s streets swelled with swarms of sightseers.

Which I did not expect and which is directly related to another misconception I had…

Regata Storica Venice

2. It would be easy to find a spot to watch the Regata. [NOPE]

While you can pay to watch the Regata from a seat in kind of a floating grandstand, the general consensus seemed to be that the reserved seats weren’t really worth the price – especially when you have the option to watch it for free.

Most people watch the Regata just like your hometown parade. It’s free to stand or sit along the main “street” (in this case, the Grand Canal).

On top of this, I had heard that people don’t really show up early to stake out a spot. So I was pretty sure we’d be able to just show up, find an unpopulated stretch, and plop ourselves down.

In fact, it seemed so much like a non-issue that Phillip and I decided to squeeze in some extra time at the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica, even if it meant showing up a little late.

We even grabbed a quick bite, since it was approaching 4pm, and we hadn’t stopped for lunch.

sandwiches in Venice

By the time we went to look for a spot, the Regata was already well underway and spectators several deep crowded the edge of the canal.

We finally found a spot near a little gondola dock, where the crowd seemed slightly more sparse. And the people in front of us eventually left, opening up space on the ground for us to sit.

3. We’d have a clue what was going on. [STILL NO.]

Things I read kept going into all this detail about the different types of boats that would be racing – this kind has two adult rowers, that kind has two younger rowers, another kind has women racing in masks in tribute to the masked prostitute rowers of the past.

 

I just thought “okay, I get it. When I see boats with 2 people rowing, I’ll know they’re the kind of boats with 2 rowers.”

But I also thought it would be clear cut and obvious, one event after another. Instead, we came in the middle of it all, and it seemed all be happening at once – historic boats parading, racers (I’m not sure which ones) racing, and some random boats floating by too.

Somewhere there was a loudspeaker with a commentator speaking very fast Italian. I listened for the names of those different kinds of boats I’d been reading about, but the words all ran together.

It just underscores the fact that you can read all about something and still be surprised when you experience it firsthand.

And that’s a good reason to travel.

This week I’ve been watching the video I took, and, honestly, I’m still unsure about what exactly is going on when. But I’m glad we got to witness it.

That said, this year, Phillip and I will be making mimosas and watching the Regata from our living room.

 

– More Regata Storica Info –

 

If you go IRL…

  • Reserved seats are €60. I read more than one complaint about giant monitors on the grandstand blocking the view of the race itself.
  • Expect crowds!
  • I’m not sure how early to suggest you show up – but definitely earlier than we did!

Getting a Taxi in Rome

Rome Taxi

Groggily standing outside Rome Ciampino Airport our very first hour in Italy, I suddenly felt unsure how to get into a cab. Even though I had read up on the do’s and dont’s of taking Italian taxis. Even though I was actually at the taxi stand and staring at a couple dozen of them.

I guess I had expected to see available taxis all lined up or at least a designated spot to wait for one.

Vatican taxi

Instead, cabs were parked haphazardly around different curbs and corners of the parking lot. Some were idling with their green (available) lights on, others had drivers (without passengers) just sitting there with their lights off, and still others were just empty with no driver in sight.

They were all mixed together, and I couldn’t make any sense of it. Ambiguity is rough when you’re sleep deprived.

Rome street corner

After deliberating way too long, I just picked one with a green light and a good vibe. We walked over to it, and I leaned towards the passenger window.

While I intended to say buona sera (“good evening” in Italian), I may have actually said buena suerte (“good luck” in Spanish).

The driver, understandably, looked confused.

Rome hotel Address

So I gave up on attempting any non-essential Italian and cut to the chase, saying the name of square we were headed to as if it were a question.

“Piazza Salerno?”

“Si.”

“Mastercard?”

“No problem!”

I still am not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to be done, but it worked for us!

Rome Taxi

– More Italy Taxi info –

Our Tips:

Write it down! I stuck a post-it note in my wallet before we left with the name of the first hotel we’d be going to, the address, and the piazza it was in. I had practiced saying the address, but the driver didn’t understand me, so it was good I could just hand him a piece of paper with the information.

MyTaxi – One of our Airbnb hosts told us about this app, and it worked great for our trip back to the airport! We scheduled a pick up the night before and paid via the app.

Florence taxi in traffic

Taking a taxi…

Throughout Italy.

  • Only use registered taxis.
  • Don’t trust a driver who approaches you or wants to haggle.

In Rome.

  • Official taxis are white with a green light on the top.
  • Prices are fixed by the city. Certain destinations (airport to the city center, for example) have a set price. Otherwise, they go by the meter.
  • Uber has been basically shut out of Rome. (Good for Rome!)

From Ciampino airport – There’s a taxi stand right outside the airport, and you shouldn’t go elsewhere to get a cab.

From Fiumicino airport – Terminals 1 and 3 have taxi service.

Taxi app

Italy: a 30,000-Foot View

map of Italy in the Vatican

Past midnight, we are zipping through Rome in the back of a cab, street lights flying by, windows down. It has taken 4 flights to get us to this point, and, after all that time in planes and airport terminals, the outside air feels delicious.

Italy map

In about an hour, we will have checked into our hotel. We will sleep like logs (or maybe like a pair of felled Corinthian columns) our first night in Italy. And that will be even more delicious.

Roma Room

Over the next two weeks, Phillip and I would be traveling from Rome to Venice to the central Italian countryside to Florence and back to Rome. Here’s some of the stuff we were up to.

Colosseum

Rome I

Arrived by: plane – Delta + Ryanair | Lodging: Hotel Roma Room | Food / drinks: Hotel Roma Room + Lettrere Caffè + Locanda Del Gelato

Our first day in Rome, we took a Colosseum tour and visited the Forum and Palatine Hills archaelogical sites.

From there, we walked the length of the Circus Maximus into the Trastevere neighborhood, ate enough apertifs to equal dinner, and then were irresistibly drawn into the gleaming gelato shop across the street.

The next morning we were on a train to Venice.

Bridge of Sighs, Venice

Venice

Arrived by: train – Italo Treno | Lodging: Couzy House in Venice (Airbnb) | Food / drinks: Un Mondo DiVino + Gelato Di Natura (at San Giacomo dall’Orio)

From Venice’s Santa Lucia train station, we lugged our rolling suitcases over stairs and bridges and bridges with stairs to get to the quiet street where our Airbnb apartment was.

Venice bridges

We had timed our visit so we could see both the annual Regata Storica gondola parade and race AND the  premiere of the opera “L’Occasione fa il ladro” at Teatro La Fenice.

Of course, we saw some of the city’s more permanent sights, as well.

Doge's Palace, Venice

At the Doge’s Palace, we wound our way through the ornate apartments, stuffy prison cells, and across the Bridge of Sighs. Afterwards, we went to the Basilica San Marco, craning our necks to marvel at the detail of its ceilings covered in gold mosaics.

Venice Grand Canal

We rode a water bus down the Grand Canal but mostly did a lot of walking and got lost so, so many times.

When we were just starting to maybe get the slightest grasp on getting around, it was time to retrace our path back over stepped bridges towards the edge of Venice – and into a car rental office.

 

Le Marche

Getting there: car rental – Auto Europe | Lodging: La Tavola Marche | Food / drinks: La Tavola Marche + Crazy Bar

Pears in wine

We were already behind schedule when we picked up our cute two-seater Smart car and began the (supposedly) 4-hour drive toward our next stop in the countryside of the Le Marche region.

Of course, it took us longer.

Le Marche

Winding through mountain roads well after dark, we finally arrived at La Tavola Marche, the inn/cooking school/agriturismo where we’d be staying. It’s run by a pair of American expats, chef Jason and marketing-genius Ashley, who have spent the last 10 years immersing themselves in the local culture and cuisine.

The “agriturismo” classification means all the food they serve must come from their own property or the local area. So they have fruit trees, chickens, and a big vegetable garden. We got to check it out the next afternoon, picking tomatoes for our cooking class.

Our last full day there we hiked a bit, and then got to sit back and enjoy a five-course dinner Chef Jason prepared just for two other guests, Phillip, and I.

Piobicco

At checkout time, we packed up our rental car, stopped briefly in the nearby town of Piobocco for postcards and an espresso, and then drove on to Florence.

 

Il Duomo, Florence

Florence

Getting there: car rental – Auto Europe | Lodging: Hotel Ferretti | Food / drinks: Gelateria Vivoli + cafeteria in the Uffizi

Arriving in the city to a tangle of traffic, we were glad to leave our rental car behind and head to the Hotel Ferretti, walking distance from all the sights we were planning to cram into our single-night stay.

We visited the Piazza del Duomo, the Uffizi Gallery, and (lesser-known) Vivoli, a gelateria that’s a contender for having the world’s best gelato.

We were also a short walk from the train station, where Italo Treno would take us back to Rome.

St. Peters ceiling

Rome II

Getting there: Italo Treno | Lodging: Mallory’s Guest House (Airbnb) | Food / drinks: Trattoria Sora Lella

Rome window

This time, we stayed in an apartment building built by our Airbnb host’s great grandfather. It was a lovely place to hang out when we stayed in to rest one rainy morning.

The day before we had wandered through the Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica. We managed to make into the Vatican Post Office before closing time, so Phillip could check out the stamps.

At some point, we crossed the invisible borderline from Vatican City back into Italy. Instead of going straight to the Metro, we opted to walk by Castel Sant’Angelo (Hadrian’s Tomb) and hop on at the Spanish Steps.

Tiber River in Rome

Our final evening in Rome, we went to dinner on an island in the Tiber River. A couple different locals had recommended Trattoria Sora Lella for authentically Roman food, so we got the tasting menu and savored every forkful.

The next morning we were back in a cab, zipping through city streets on a circuitous route to the airport, grateful for our time in Italy.




We received media passes from Teatro La Fenice and Italo Treno.